Boro Textiles: What is Boro?

Following on from my post about my boro style patchwork project, I wanted to share a quick history of boro textiles and an introduction to this useful stitched technique. Boro cloth is easy and satisfying to make, great for patching and mending and looks good too. Using very little in the way of supplies and following basic steps you can repurpose clothes and household textiles to look good, save money and look after the Earth. 

What is boro?

Boro, a shortened form of the term boroboro (tattered or repaired),  is a type of cloth made by stitching layers of scrap or tattered fabric together with basic sashiko stab stitches using strong thread. 

A short history of boro

Dating back to the Edo period in Japan (1603-1867), the making of boro textiles was a utilitarian method of reworking fabric to patch both clothes and household textiles, such as traditional farmer's jackets and futon. 

Predominantly utilised by the field workers who lived and worked in poverty and harsh conditions, pieces would be re-worked over generations, extending their longevity and creating hardwearing, stable fabrics that were frugal, warm and fit-for-purpose. 

Traditional Fabrics

Kasuri woven fabric

Cotton and silk were expensive and unavailable so the farming communities would weave and dye their own fabrics from hemp or linen. Indigo was cheap and plentiful with the added bonus of having moth repelling qualities; it was used to dye either the whole, woven cloth or the fibres prior to weaving in a resist dying technique called kasuri (dating from around the 13th century), which resulted in beautiful, intricately patterned textiles. 

Indigo plants

Indigo dyeing

Modern day boro fabric

The Japanese concept of  mottainai (being frugal/using every scrap) 

With a growing mindfulness in sustainable living, interest in boro textiles has recently become very popular and is not only seeing a resurgence for its practical application in repair, repurposing and saving money but also as inspiration for decorative stitching linked to Japanese aesthetic.

Decorative embroidery and fibre art

While sashiko stitching is carefully worked to be decorative, the stitching of boro cloth is less formal and created to be more suited to the nature of the repair and purpose of the item; the idea is to patch and create a stable, hard-wearing cloth item which is fit-for purpose. 

Boro textile versus sashiko stitching

In decorative textile art, boro inspired patchwork made from scratch from fabric scraps and stitching can be a great way to creatively use up small pieces to use as a basis for fibre art (combined with sashiko, other textile art techniques) or as sturdy cloth to sew into useful or decorative items, such as bags, wall hangings or clothes etc

Cloth, threads and tools - an overview

Any fabric can be used to create boro but natural fabrics, such as linen, hemp and cotton that do not have a very tight weave are perfect. If the weave is too dense, it'll become really tricky to pleat and stitch layers of fabric and fingers will become very sore! Conversely, if the weave is too loose it will fray and detach.

To create a hardwearing, stable fabric or repair the ideal thread is a strong, long-staple sashiko thread, which offers the tensile strength needed for the job. However, for decorative purposes, any thread could be used, including embroidery threads or perle cotton (these examples are spun with short fibres that are weak and would break easily in practical use).

Creating boro cloth with sashiko stab stiches doesn't require fancy equipment or a hoop. The bare minimum needed is a sashiko (or long, sharp) needle, some thread and your fabric. 

Fabric scraps are pieced together, 'pleated' onto the needle and pulled off the other end, rather than the needle being pulled through (I'll write a separate post and tutorial on technique very soon). This isn't a hard and fast rule - where areas or seams are thick, the needle can be manipulated and single stitches worked, but generally, long lines of multiple stitches are worked at once. This also has the benefit of achieving really quick, satisfying results! Win win! There are additional items that can make boro inspired textile creation easier, such as pins, a kakehari sewing clamp (for tension), or less painful, such as a thimble, but these are not needed to start. Why not give it a go?

I'll be back soon with more on sashiko and boro:

Boro and sashiko equipment and suppliers

Pucker up! Let's talk about tension!

Step-by-step boro style tutorial - recycle and reuse fabric scraps to make new cloth

Easy boro mending tutorial - get more wear from your clothing to save money and be sustainable

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